Whisky I've Drank: Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare

By Karla Alindahao at Forbes
I may not see dead people, but I do believe in ghosts—particularly when it comes to my whiskies. And these days, the spirits in the spirit world have more to do with defunct distilleries than haunted rickhouses.
In 2017, Diageo introduced Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare, the inaugural expression in a limited-release series that intends to blend highly-valuable “ghost” whiskies with rare malts. (For the uninitiated, the informal term “ghost whiskies” refer to expressions extracted from barrels that hail from shuttered distilleries—a noteworthy detail that makes them much-sought-after commodities in the whisky world.)
So to say that Ghost and Rare, as an ongoing endeavor, is something that’s both incredibly exceptional and daring is a massive understatement. Considering that there’s a finite amount of remarkable “ghost” expressions out there, it really is quite the gamble—because once these reserves are gone, they’re gone forever. Vanished. Use too much of the resources on R&D and you’d be left with a shortage of the good stuff. But on the upside: We’re talking about master blender Dr. Jim Beveridge. And he most certainly knows what he’s doing (and always has).
So we Johnnie Walker Blue fans should rest easy—because we’re in good hands.
The first iteration of Ghost and Rare included a single malt from Brora, a grain whisky from Cambus, and another single malt from Pittyvaich. Those three “ghost” expressions were then blended with exceptional spirits from Clynelish, Royal Lochnagar, Glenkinchie, Glenlossie, and Cameronbridge. The final blend clocked in at 46% ABV with very rich notes—something to enjoy and collect.
Now, the second edition of Ghost and Rare is debuting this October. And it highlights one of the most vaunted shuttered distilleries on Islay—Port Ellen. Using Port Ellen as an anchor for this edition is a talking point itself because there’s such a demand for bottles from that distillery that the price, no matter what the age statement, is astronomical. Consider this: A 35 Year Port Ellen can be purchased for around $3,650. And we’re not even talking about secondary markets, which would set you back a lot more. If you were to purchase Port Ellen by the dram—in Paris’ Golden Promise Whisky Bar, for instance—you could be paying close to $200. (Adding to the allure of the new expression is the reopening of the Port Ellen and Brora distilleries, which no doubt has something to do with the prominence of Port Ellen in this blend.)
The two other “ghost whiskies” in this particular expression are Caledonian and Carsebridge, which balance out Port Ellen’s peaty and saline intensity. In addition to all that, five rare malts join the blend to round out the notes, flavors, mouthfeel, and finish: Mortlach, Dailuaine, Cragganmore, Blair Athol, and Oban—all of them at least 20 years old.
During my tasting (via a tasting kit), Ghost and Rare Port Ellen starts out closer to the traditional Blue Label, which is slightly smoky to begin with. It’s evident that the second expression is in keeping with the Blue Label DNA—just sweeter on the nose, reminiscent of vanilla. But as you progress a few sips further, you’ll begin to notice the distinct Port Ellen peatiness intensify (but not too much) on the palate. And the sweet roundness of vanilla bean highlighted by citrus notes will begin to emerge as well. Remember, though, that these flavors don’t show themselves until minutes after your first sip. It’s a Scotch that takes its time to unfold: Even its medium-light viscosity shows itself not during your first three sips, but a good while into the dram.
What makes it stand out, in my mind, is the ease with which one can drink it. The Port Ellen edition is 43.8% ABV—lower than Johnnie Walker Blue’s first Ghost and Rare—so it’s not altogether surprising. But its balance is extraordinary—so much so that even a novice whisky drinker would not have trouble appreciating it. (Think: zero whisky face.) The pleasurable salinity of Port Ellen is also one of the main highlights, even though it’s very much subdued by the other Scotches in the blend. The price ($350) is a pleasant surprise because it’s $50 less than the first Ghost and Rare.
All in all, it’s a solid expression and worth a spot in any serious Scotch collection. And I will say this: If you’re expecting a colossal dose of peat because of the Port Ellen name, I cannot reiterate enough that that’s not what you’re going to get. The whisky is fresh, balanced, and malty. But it is not screaming of Islay. Like any good ghost, it murmurs.