Saturday, March 24, 2018

Whisky I've Drank: Dewar's Aged 15 Years




By Father John Rayls
Sir Edwin Landseer created an oil painting known as “The Monarch of the Glen” in 1851, which became extremely popular through the 1800’s. The original was purchased by John Dewar & Sons in 1919.
I mention this bit of art history because Dewar’s current Master Blender, Stephanie Macleod, used the painting many decades later as inspiration for Dewar’s 15 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky. Her predecessor, Thomas Aitken, has said the backbone of the blend is a 27 year old malt whisky from Aberfeldy. This comment is an interesting lesson in that when the common consumer thinks of backbone, they would mean the single largest constituent in the blend, but that isn’t what Aiken meant. His use is meant more literally, the thing Macleod built the blend around. Still, it all goes to show that a 15 year age statement really does mean 15 years minimum.
The Scotch:
The Scotch has a beautiful light, muddy copper color in the glass, with highlights of white and polished brass. The legs appeared a little thinner than in the 12 Year Old and were readily apparent.
The nose was subtle, with aromas of malt, honey, oak, floral and light fruit and very light smoke, showing a little of the Sherry cask influence. There was some slight nose burn present too, despite the subtlety.
The mouthfeel was creamy and soft. Most of the mouth action was from mid-palate towards the back. I found the flavor profile to be very subtle as well with light notes of floral and oak. The finish was short to medium in length and continues the overall feel of softness with some warming at the very back of the mouth with light vanilla and oak.
Dewar’s 15 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky is an easy sipping whisky both neat and with water or ice. It is also very suitable for Scotch-based cocktails.
The Price:
Because Dewar’s is the most popular scotch in America, even this 15 Year Old is available almost everywhere and the prices are all over the map. However, you should find most pricing between $45.00 and $60.00.

Saturday, March 10, 2018

Whisky I've Drank: Black Bottle Blended Scotch Whisky



By Margarett Waterbury / June 26, 2017

There’s something nostalgic about blended Scotches. No longer particularly fashionable, they hint at a time when drinking was less complicated, when people were loyal to their brands, and when brands stuck to their guns, for better or worse, without resorting to annual NAS releases named after Greek gods or migratory bird species or the seven chakras.
But, of course, all things change—even blends. This one, Black Bottle, has a history that dates back to 1879, when it was created by Gordon Graham & Co., a company better known for blending tea. It was originally packaged in a dark, opaque glass bottle that gave the whisky its name, but the producers later switched to a green bottle, which stuck around for most of the brand’s history.
Over the years, Black Bottle changed hands several times, eventually ending up as part of the Highland Distillers Ltd. portfolio. Highland Distillers reformulated the blend to feature malt from all seven of Islay’s functioning distilleries, giving it a predictably peaty tang and generating a cult following. However, the brand eventually became part of the Burns Stewart Distillers portfolio, and in 2013 it was reformulated to return “to the original recipe and black glass bottle which Gordon Graham chose for his blend.”
Presumably, Gordon was working with a much less peat-forward palette, because the only Islay single malt retained today in the Black Bottle formula is Bunnahabhain. That’s in line with the sentiment expressed by the brand’s master blender Ian MacMillan, who claimed that “Black Bottle lost itself in Islay,” and championed a return to a richer flavor profile, to the chagrin of many peat heads. The new bottle is quite stylish, simultaneously current and retro, with a glossy gold label and a solid feel in the hand. But is the whisky inside still solid as well?
Tasting Notes:
Black Bottle Whisky
Vital Stats:
No age statement, 86 proof, blended Scotch whisky.
Appearance: 
Rich amber
Nose: 
There’s something very humid in the nose, funky and feinty, with lots of wet cereal, old malt porridge, and damp cardboard. There’s also electrical tape, a ribbon of industrial smoke, bits of plastic here and there, and plenty of brash oak to boot. It’s clunky and a little indistinct, something like Cutty Sark Prohibition without the swagger.
Palate: 
On the palate, there’s fresh wort, maduro cigar, and deeply toasted whole wheat bread, plus a tantalizing herbal note in the finish that never quite manages to break through the low-hanging smog. It’s masculine and full-bodied, but again, there’s a kind of vagueness, a lack of clear perspective. On the bright side, it’s mercifully free of that cheap apple juice flavor that plagues many blends.
The Takeaway
Black Bottle is no longer Islay-inspired, but it’s hard to say what it is inspired by. Is it smoky? Yes. Is it sweet? Yes. Is it spicy? Yes. Is it grainy? Yes. Too rugged to be a Dewar’s, it’s also too sweet-and-syrupy to be grouped with some of the more rugged blends like Teacher’s, that pugilistic low-end concoction that somehow manages to retain distinctiveness and charm.
But whatever it is, it’s not bad, just a bit confusing—and, of course, delivered in gorgeous packaging. A head-scratcher, but one I’m not sad to ponder again.
User Rating 3.17 (6 votes)