Whisky I've Drank: The Dalmore Aged 15 Years

By Joshua St. John - October 11th, 2016
History and distinctive design intersect on the signature stag’s head adorning each bottle from The Dalmore. The striking aesthetic mixed with a unique bottle shape makes any release from this eastern coastal Highlands distillery stand out from competing single malts that may be sharing space on a shelf. The lineup offered by the distillery today is deep enough to rival those of a great many whisky producers. As to how each of these releases stands up to one another is where things get truly interesting.
The Dalmore 15-Year-Old is the second in a series which is known as the Principal Collection, which begins with the 12-year-old incarnation. As the name implies and the label clearly states, The 15 is a single malt which is aged for 15 years. The maturation process includes separating the whisky involved into three equal parts after spending an initial 12 years in American white oak ex-bourbon casks.
Each third is then fated to aging in a unique sherry wood: namely Amoroso, Apostles, and Matusalem oloroso. The Dalmore spends three years aging in these sherry woods before being brought back together in an upstanding sherry butt. The final product is bottled at a standard 40% alcohol by volume.
Tasting Notes: The Dalmore 15-Year-Old
Vital Stats: 

40% ABV (80 proof), age 15 years, 100% malted barley, available between $60-130 per 750 ml bottle. It definitely pays to shop around for this particular version.
Appearance: 

Copper and deep amber, strong legs.
Nose: 

Tart cherry, spent coffee grounds, wax paper.
Palate: 

Sweet initially and quite rapidly tart. Slightly thin mouthfeel. Unripened grapes, oak, chocolate orange candy, bitter orange rind, coal dust, cola. Quite dry and almost sharp finish. Lingering bitter notes of citrus zest and tonic water. Subtle burn. Very quick.
Final Thoughts:
When taken as a whole, the various incarnations of The Dalmore are somewhat hit-and-miss for me. This is not necessarily a bad thing. I enjoy having distinct voices in the chorus offered by any label. When each release seems to be indistinguishable from another, it becomes difficult to defend the illusion of choice within the brand. With The Dalmore, there are clear differences between this bottling, the 12-year-old, and the 18-year-old derivations.
That being said, I found the experience of this individual dram to be underwhelming. It should be noted that prices on The Dalmore tend to vary wildly depending on the market, so shopping around is recommended. All things considered, I won’t personally be tempted to make The 15 my next stop along The Dalmore route.

Score: 79/100

Whisky I've Drank: Laphroaig Select Casks

By Brendan WhiskyMate

And so we return to Islay and more specifically, Laphroaig, to review one of their expressions which has been on the market for some time now: the Laphroaig Select Cask.

As has been the position of late, the distillery has released a number of NAS whiskies over the past few years alongside their core range of age-statemented offerings. Some of these releases, namely the Quarter Cask for the core range and PX Cask for the travel retail exclusive range, have been exceptional additions and has given Laphroaig a level of credibility when it comes to releasing quality NAS whiskies.

Make no mistake, most of these releases are on the younger end of the spectrum. But it seems that Laphroaig is looking at a two-pronged approach of firstly educating whisky drinkers that age is but a number and that flavour-driven younger releases can be just as good as their age-statemented counterparts and secondly allowing for a form of stock management in order to better cater to demand for their whiskies.

The focus of today’s review is the Laphroaig Select Cask expression from the distillery and it is a vatting of a multitude of different casks. Oloroso sherry butts, American white oak (and according to The Whisky Exchange, possibly some virgin oak), Pedro Ximenez-seasoned hogsheads (possibly the same ones used to mature the PX Cask), quarter casks and first-fill bourbon casks are all used in the vatting process to create this whisky and it results in a rather restrained version of the distillery’s house style.

So, let’s get on with the review!

Laphroaig Select Cask (40% abv)

Colour: Straw

Nose: 

Initial entry presents sea salt, anchovies and salted butter alongside with the typical Laphroaig iodine note. The peat is present, but rather restrained. TCP, a hint of sherry, barley sugar, kippers and apricots make this a rather complex nosing experience. A hint of vanilla at the very end. (20/25)

Palate: 

The sweetness of the barley coupled with coastal peat and sweet sherry are quite apparent from the beginning, with a touch of nutmeg and cloves intermingling. Not as complex or densely flavoured as the PX Cask, but it does have it’s own unique character.

Smoked bacon, beach bonfire, sea salt and white pepper make an appearance after some time and combine fairly well with the main characteristics of this dram. It’s definitely Laphroaig-esque in style, but with a softer and more approachable side. (19/25)

Finish: 

Short on the finish with some saltiness, barley sugar and just a hint of sherry. Ends rather abruptly to be honest. (17/25)

Balance: 

A fairly well balanced dram which does try to incorporate all of its elements together in a cohesive fashion, but it does seem to lack a certain wow factor. In this case, the standard abv of 40% doesn’t do it any favours as it seems rather underpowered for my liking.

If this was bottled at a slightly higher strength of 43% abv, chances are it would have provided a better representation of itself in my opinion. However, it is a solid (albeit unspectacular) offering from Laphroaig. The mouthfeel is slightly oily but drying towards the end. (19/25)

Rating: 75/100

The Laphroaig Select Cask can be purchased at both The Whisky Exchange (£29.96 ex VAT) & Master of Malt (£28.33 ex VAT) with an additional charge for shipping and handling and any associated customs duties.

On its own, it is a fairly solid dram. But when put up against the likes of the Quarter Cask or PX Cask, it tends to fall some way short of the lofty standards that one would expect from a Laphroaig regardless of whether it is a NAS release or an age-statemented offering.

Until the next review (which I promise will be something very interesting), have a great week ahead.

Slainte!

Brendan

Whisky I've Drank: The Hakushu Single Malt Aged 12 years

By THE CASKS
From the few pictures I’ve seen, Suntory’s Hakushu distillery lies in a particularly beautiful setting. Seen from afar, its twin pagoda roofs, connected near the top by a covered walkway, nestled in a deep forest surrounded by mountains…it’s hard to imagine a more idyllic, if not idealized, setting for Japanese whisky making. It came as a surprise to me, at least, that beneath this arboreal splendor, lies what was at one time, and fairly recently at that, the world’s largest distillery.
Suntory founded Hakushu in 1973, purchasing not just land enough for the distillery, but a large area around the site as well to protect its reportedly exquisite water source. Hakushu lives quite high as distilleries go, at an elevation of nearly 2300′ which is about 750′ higher than Scotland’s highest distillery, Braeval. Initially, there was one still room with 12 pairs of stills (that’s 24 stills for the mathematically challenged, and yes, I am one of you), but in just seven short years, these 24 copper beauties were apparently running full steam and Suntory realized they needed what all overburdened distilleries need – more stills. A second still house came online in 1981, adding 6 more pairs (that’s 12 stills…) to the total. Now, with all 36 stills galloping along at full speed, Hakushu was able to claim the title of largest distillery in the world.
Alas, les bon temps did not roulez for long (yes, I know that’s French, I don’t know Japanese). Over the years, recession, tax increases, and the resulting lack of demand for the booze led Suntory to mothball the original stillhouse in 2006. The remaining functioning stills (12, by my count) are of myriad shapes and sizes, allowing Hakushu to produce many different styles of whisky, most of which serve Suntory’s popular blends. The distillery produces a range of spirit, from non-peated to heavily peated, all from malted barley they’ve imported from Scotland. The majority of maturation takes place in American Oak casks with some ex-Oloroso butts and a small percentage of new Japanese Oak casks making up the rest. In Japan and the rest of the world where Hakushu is more readily available, it’s core range is made up of a no-age-statement malt and 10, 12, 18, and 25 year old expressions along with limited edition releases. Here in the wasteland of the U.S., the Hakushu range is limited to…this 12 Year Old. Lightly peated, this one is created (or at least marketed) to be consumed both neat and in the “mizuwari” style (highball with water and ice).
The Nose: 

 A really fresh, inviting, warm nose, with chocolate covered cherries, lush vanilla-tinged honey, cedar wood, and juicy raisins. Subtler notes of crushed almonds and dry hay. Very light peat notes, lightly medicinal yet covered in more floral honey. A small hint of smoldering grass and green wood smoke adds a nice counterpoint.
The Palate: 

 Honey and dried fruit to start with a slightly oily mouthfeel. A lithe, cocoa-tinged burst of fruit and woody spice, with winey grapes, juicy tart apples, fresh grated ginger and green cardamom. A subtle bit of white pepper accompanies a nice swell of mild peat and smoke towards the end.
The Finish: 

 A nice combination of citrus sweetness and complex tannins linger with oak, cedar, and drying spice, cardamom, white pepper and raw clove. That wisp of smoke from the nose and palate gracefully wafts through the finish as well.
Thoughts: 

 This one is a delicious, intricate puzzle and has quickly become a regular in my cabinet. At times I find it similar to Highland Park 12 in that it’s a great all-around whisky with very well-structured hits of fruit, wood-spice, smoke and sweetness. But there’s also an exotic complexity that has just kept me coming back for more. Japanese whiskies can definitely be different animals and in my limited experience with them, perhaps none have shown off their unique quality more than this one. I spent most of my time with this one neat, but it’s equally delicious over ice, or in that tall glass with ice and water – diluted as such, it remains full of flavor. A painstakingly well-crafted whisky, light and crisp yet full of deeply complex flavors, highly recommended.
Hakushu 12 Year Old, Japanese Single Malt
43% ABV
Score: 88

Whisky I've Drank: Ardbeg Islay Single Malt 10 Years Old

By Jason Debly

Bonfire on a Bluff?

Having a glass of Arbeg 10 year old in your living room is like building a bonfire made up of tree branches, scrub brush and peat freshly cut from a Scottish bog, lighting it and watching the smoke swirl upwards as it is carried away by the unpredictable winds of the Isle of Islay, Scotland. The smoke at times will fill your nostrils followed by the peat, charcoal and a whiff of salty sea spray. Ardbeg 10 year old is uncompromising like a lazy wind blowing off the coast of the Isle of Islay. It's so cold and 'lazy' that it feels like it blows through you rather than around you. Such is the experience of a dram of this single malt scotch whisky.

Isle of Islay

Ardbeg is one of eight distilleries on the Isle of Islay, an Island off the coast of Scotland that can have wind, rain and a crashing sea on a regular basis. The geography is rocky, relatively flat, with plenty of bluffs, jagged outcroppings of rock, and cliff faces above a churning white-capped sea below. Whiskies distilled on this island are often very peaty, smokey and kind of like the flavor of a menthol cigarette. Peat actually plays a large role in the smoke flavor of this scotch whisky and the others of the Isle of Islay.

What is Peat?

On the Isle of Islay there are bogs and wetlands with plenty of partially decayed vegetation like scrub brush, tall grass, and other low lying vegetation. It is cut out in blocks and when dried is used to fuel fires to dry the malt used in scotch. The interaction of the smoke from the peat imparts the unique smokey flavor that is termed "peat" or "peaty" when describing scotch whiskies especially from the Isle of Islay.

Suggested Stemware

Glencairn would be best. Don't have that? Try a brandy snifter. The bowled shape with the opening at the top traps the aromas to be enjoyed as you nose it. A crystal tumbler doesn't 'trap' the scents of this whisky. Nevertheless, the tumbler is better than nothing and drinking from one will certainly not affect the flavor profile, just not deliver the full bouquet on the nose.

Ice? Water? Neat?

Decisions, decisions, decisions . . . If you are a novice scotch drinker, I would recommend adding an ice cube or two, it will dampen the pronounced peaty flavor profile and take away some of the 'bite.' If you enjoy scotch and consider yourself quite serious about it, I would recommend a teaspoon of distilled or spring water be added to a single or double pour (you will have to experiment to see what works for you). The water will add a lot of complexity. I find 'neat' it is just too over the top.

If you are a veteran drinker, well then pony up and get ready to ride this flavor profile like "Seabiscuit."

Nose (undiluted)

Beautifully strong peat, wood smoke and salt air. The aroma of peat is so powerful, that often after having had my drink, washed my glass, returned it to the cupboard, gone to bed, up and off to work, back home, late evening retrieve my glass, and wow! I still smell peat in my glass! And not just any peat, but rather distinctively that of Ardbeg.

Palate (undiluted)

Starts sweet, mid palate fills with damp wood smoke before moving to drying black pepper and more billowing smoke like a big Cohiba.

Finish (undiluted)

White cheddar to salt to fresh ground black pepper. Slight burn remains on the throat after it is swallowed.

General Impressions

Not what I would call “smooth” scotch if consumed neat. On the other hand, I would not describe it as “rough” either. Instead, I would describe this scotch having a flavor profile that involves an “abrupt” transition from sweet smoke to sharp black pepper and coarse salt. Not a flavor profile that I would describe as "complex" when consumed neat. You need to add water (ie. teaspoon) to bring out the complexity and magic of this dram. Really, water is a must!

This single malt enjoys a large following among serious scotch drinkers, and I do understand the fascination. The flavor profile is unique and a very powerful, yet elegant explosion of smoke and peat upon all the senses. You will come back to this whisky again and again, as you analyze its secrets.

Initially, I didn't understand what was all the fuss about this spirit. But that first tasting haunted me. It beckoned me back. The nose of peat and wood smoke, a promise that was fulfilled on the palate was fascinating. I must say I like this, but not my favorite. I like it, but not the way I am obsessed with Cragganmore 12 yr old, a scotch that I systematically bought all remaining bottles where I live upon learning the distributor was cutting my liquor store off.

This is not a mainstream spirit. It is for the scotch connoisseur seeking a very unique flavor. If you are considering purchasing this as a gift for someone, and not knowing their individual tastes, I would recommend choosing another single malt that is more pleasing to the average drinker.

Water really needs to be added to this malt to bring out a more complex display of flavors. Teaspoon to a double pour I find is just enough. One must remember that it is bottled at 46% abv. I find that over 43% many malts benefit from the addition of some water. Ardbeg 10 is not an exception to such a general rule.

I am surprised by my conclusion on this scotch. I thought I would enjoy it more given all the praise I have read in books and elsewhere online. It's more than ok, but I would not buy it again. I certainly do not agree with the praise rendered by the scotch expert, Jim Murray, who wrote: "Unquestionably the greatest distillery to be found on Earth. If perfection on the palate exists, this is it."

Cheers!

By SingleMaltBrasil
Os maltes da Ardbeg são os mais enfumaçados de Islay com 50ppm de fenóis (a maioria dos maltes de Islay têm entre 20 e 40ppm de fenóis). A Ardbeg foi fundada em 1815 e ficou inativa durante parte da década de 80 e 90. Em 1997 foi comprada pela Glenmorangie plc e reaberta.

A destilaria vem ganhando vários prêmios recentemente, sendo considerada uma das mais criativas e inovadoras da Escócia.
Teor alcoólico: 46%
Volume: 750 ml
Notas de degustação:
- Aparência: Dourado.
- Olfato: Explosão de fumaça, turfa, algas marinhas e alcatrão. Toques de limão, pera, maçã e cereais.
- Paladar: Profusão de sabores. Seco, salgado, cítrico e licoroso. Baunilha, tabaco, café e especiarias.
- Fim de Boca: Longo. Enfumaçado, seco e com notas de turfa, cereais e algas marinhas.
- Conclusão: Talvez o melhor malte de Islay. Balanceado, complexo e rico em aromas e sabores.

Whisky I've Drank: Wild Turkey 81 Proof

By Josh Peters
A few years back Wild Turkey 81 replaced the not-so-popular Wild Turkey 80. Wild Turkey 80 was a 4 year bourbon that was watered down from barrel proof to meet the minimum legal proof (80) to be considered a bourbon and was rather lack luster. The 81 is only 1 proof (.5%) higher in alcohol content which still doesn’t bring the kick I like in my bourbon, but it is a blend of 6-8 year old whiskey that does bring with it some extra maturity and a bit more flavor. Compared to the 80 it’s a vast improvement. Compared to the amazing Wild Turkey 101… well there just isn’t any comparison.
Overall this is a decent bourbon. It’s not a stellar world class bourbon like the 101 and the Rare Breed, but it mixes easily in cocktails where you don’t want a strong bourbon taste. The bourbon pro probably won’t find anything interesting in it when drank neat, but the bourbon novice definitely will. The basic bourbon flavors and aromas are all present and if you think of it more as bourbon training wheels than a serious contender to the Wild Turkey throne it’s easy to see that it’s good for what it is. A simple and approachable 81 proof bourbon that still manages to deliver some quality bourbon flavor.
If you’ve had the Wild Turkey 81 add your own thoughts or notes in the comments below. I’d love to read them.
Wild Turkey 81 Review
ABV: 40.5%
Price: $16 (750ml)
Distiller: Austin Nichols / Wild Turkey
EYE
Light honey
NOSE
Bourbon spice strolls out of the glass. It’s not a powerful aroma like it’s big brother, but it isn’t completely lack luster either. The usual characters of caramel, vanilla and oak show up with some orange zest and corn sidekicks.
TASTE
Bourbon spice is again the first to arrive but this time it brings a bit of cinnamon with it. Caramel, corn on the cob, ‘Nilla Wafers and some bitter orange meander onto the palate along with a hint of raw alcohol. Which is a bit strange considering it’s been cut down.
FEEL
This is where I start to struggle with it. It’s a bit watery and has almost no body to it at all. Smooth whiskey should still have a bit of bite to it, but here it’s missing completely.
FINISH
Surprisingly long finish of corn, caramel, wood and alcohol that fade out to a caramel coffee syrup (think Torani) and alcohol. That hint of alcohol which was initially on the palate gets stronger as the other flavors fade. Not my favorite finish in bourbondom, but definitely not the worst.
SCORE: 81/100

Whisky I've Drank: The Hakushu Distiller´s Reserve Single Malt

By Ruben Luyten
Earlier this year, Suntory launched two NAS expressions as part of the core ranges of Hakushu and Yamazaki, both named Distiller’s Reserve. Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve joins the 12 Year Old to form the standard range of this Japanese distillery.
As a NAS expression, the Distiller’s Reserve contains different spirits: young lightly peated malts (8 years and older), heavily peated malt and whisky matured in American oak for around 18 years. All the casks have been hand-picked by Suntory’s Master Blender, Shinji Fukuyo.
Hakushu ‘Distiller’s Reserve’

43%, OB 2014)
Nose: 

very fruity and aromatic with plenty of vanilla. Unripe pears and apples, melon and lemons. There’s also a grassy / minty note (slightly new-oakish) as well as something of cucumber. A subtle smokiness in the background. Pine wood. Mouth: again a bright fruitiness, but with more oak and more herbal notes now. Lots of zesty notes, slightly bitter, especially grapefruit. Again some pine wood and gingery notes, as well as earthy overtones. A little on the young side now. Finish: medium long, soft smoke, green fruits and wood.
One of the advantages of a NAS is the ability to bring together aromas that are normally linked to different ages. This is the first time that I think this idea actually works well, at least on the nose. On the palate you can’t stop thinking it’s young whisky trying to feel older. Nonetheless decent stuff, reasonably priced. Around € 50.
Score: 84/100

Whisky I've Drank: Suntory Whisky "Kakubin"

By Jan van den Ende
Country: Japan
Brand: Suntory Kakubin Yellow Label
Type: Blended Japanese Whisky
Age: NAS
Alcohol: 40%
Colour: Dark Golden
Nose: 

The Alcohol is quite present so please give the Kakubin enough time in the glass to open up. The Kakubin is immediately recognisable as a Japanese whisky as the Aroma is quite distinctive. I'm nosing on the edge of the glass as the Alcohol remains strong. I find Floral and Fruity tones, young Grain Alcohol, Brown Sugar, Caramel, Plums, Sweet Candies, young Bourbon, Nuts, Cinnamon, Vanilla, light Honey, light Coconut Water and a little Citrus. It's nothing special but better than your average cheap Scottish Blend. I would rate it even higher if not for the sharp Alcohol that spoils a bit of the fun.
Taste: 

Watery, Sugary Sweet, Edgy and slightly Bitter with Grain Alcohol, Oak, Cereals, light Vanilla, light Honey, Grapefruit, light Pepper and light Ginger. What a disappointment after the reasonable Nose.
Finish: 

Short, Sugary Sweet and Watery with light Honey, Grapefruit, Nuts, Nut Shells, Grains, light Vanilla, Oak, light Pepper and Ginger.
Added Water completely kills this Blend. It does not even taste like Whisky anymore.
Rating: 73
Nose: 20 – Taste: 17.5 - Finish: 17 – Overall: 18.5
General Remarks: 

The Kakubin (Square Bottle) Blend has been produced by Suntory since 1937 and contains a.o. Malt Whisky from Yamazaki and Hakushu. These whiskies mature in a variety of casks that include Ex-Sherry and Ex-Wine casks. It's the best selling Whisky in Japan as it's very cheap there at around 20 US Dollars. It's mainly used in cocktails though such as the Highball. The marks on the bottle are made to look like the shell of a turtle, the Japanese symbol for a long and prosperous life. Strangely enough the name Kakubin is not at all mentioned on the bottle. There are two more versions of the Kakubin available in Japan, the White and the Black Label. I will try to get samples somehow. Prices vary substantially between 20 and 60 US Dollars depending on where you live (September 2015). In Japan, the Price/Quality ratio is okay but no way I would spend over 30 US Dollars to get this Blend.
Drinking Experience Neat: Below Average
Drinking Experience on the Rocks: Okay
Conclusion: 

Most Japanese use the Kakubin Yellow Label as a cheap ingredient for their cocktails, especially the Highball. That's the only reason why it's the best selling Whisky in Japan. Because it does not have sufficient Aromas and Flavours to qualify as a sipping Whisky. The Nose is not bad although the strong Alcohol spoils a bit of the fun. On the Palate and in the Short Finish however, the Kakubin is Watery, Sugary Sweet, Edgy and totally unsatisfactory. I got this bottle as an anniversary gift and I'm now calculating how many Highballs I need to drink before this bottle goes to the graveyard. I hope I like Highballs!